Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
